September 5, 2018: Indian Himalaya Expedition
Wheels up and bound for India. Expedition to climb Chiling II's unclimbed north face with Alan Rousseau in the Zanskar Range.
August 12, 2018: Matterhorn Climb
Summit of the Matterhorn.
July 27, 2018: Alps Climbing School
Summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul.
June 29, 2018: Off to the Alps
Off to Chamonix for the summer guiding season.
May 26, 2018: Mountain Madness Guide Training
Leading the Mountain Madness guide training with Alan Rousseau. Making sure MM guides are refreshed and ready for the summer Cascades season.
May 10, 2018: Back into the Alaska Range
Flying back into the AK Range. Denali Base Camp will be home for the next two weeks while attempting to climb Mt. Hunter's North Buttress.
April 23, 2018: Back to Alaska, alpine climbing edition
Headed into the Alaska Range to guide some alpine climbs in the Ruth Gorge.
March 11, 2018: Making ski movies in AK
Working with film crews is always a highlight for me. This year I had the privilege to again work with Tom Day and Court Leve shooting for Warren Miller Entertainment. TJ Balon and Richard Hallman were new media additions this year and were a joy to work with. Athletes Dash Longe and Jim Ryan were a blast to ski with. Fun to get out in the mountains with Kevin Quinn too.
March 4, 2018: Instructing the Heli-Ski US Guide School
Along side Lel Tone, I had the opportunity to instruct the Heli-Ski US guide school and pass along knowledge to the next generation of ski guides. It was a great week of practical education.
February 16, 2018: Migration North
Heading north to my second (or is it third?) home in Cordova, AK. The ski season at Points North starts in a couple days.
January 5, 2018: Cascade Powder Guides
Starting the new year with a stint of work with CPG (formerly Cascade Powder Cats). Cat skiing, ski touring, and avalanche course instruction.
December 27, 2017: Road tripping the Powder Highway
Kimberly, Fernie, Hot Springs, Panorama, Kicking Horse. Beautiful British Columbia here we come.
December 14, 2017: AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Course
Leading a Mountain Madness avalanche course with Ian Nicholson with field days on Mt. Rainier.
December 6, 2017: Bozeman Ice Fest
Roadtrip to Montana for some world-class waterfall ice climbing and skiing.
October 4, 2017: Summit of Rungofarka
Around 11:30am Alan and I stood on top of Rungofarka after 4 days of climbing.
September 8, 2017: Departing Leh, Ladakh
After 2 days of flights, Alan and I are about to hit the road for 2 days of driving to the trailhead for our basecamp. We will be off the grid for about a month. Wish us luck.
September 5, 2017: Off to India
I am headed to New Dehli to meet Alan Rousseau on our way to the Zanskar Range in Jammu and Kashmir. We will be attempting an unclimbed Rungofarka, a 6495 meter peak.
August 27, 2017: Alps Season Coming to a Close
A great week in Zermatt has brought my guiding season to a close. We had challenging weather but still managed summits of the Riffelhorn, Pollux, Breithorn and the Matterhorn. 4/4 on the Matterhorn this summer!
August 9, 2017: Kalymnos
With poor weather all over the Alps and a chunk of time off where do you go? Nice thing about Europe is that there are so many climbing options so close. Kalymnos was an awesome treat mid-summer.
July 13, 2017: Mont Blanc
A trip up Mt. Blanc was a little windy but we sent.
July 8, 2017: Alps season is on
First trip up the Matterhorn this season was a success. Great conditions on the mountain!
June 17, 2017: Back in the USSR
Well, back to Russia anyway. Off to to Moscow and then to the Caucasus for my 10th expedition to Mt. Elbrus.
May 18, 2017: Guide Training
I was honored to be a part of training the next generation of mountain guides at Mountain Madness, along side fellow IFMGA guides Ian Nicholson and Joshua Jarrin.
April 10, 2017: Ski Film Season
Traditionally, late season in AK is good. The days are longer, not as cold, and the long sunsets make for great fliming. This year I am psyched to be working with a crew as their guide, filming for "Finding the Line."
March 8, 2017: To the Great White North
The annual pilgrimage to AK has begun. Let the heliski season commence. Psyched for another season with Points North.
February 16, 2017: Avalanche Courses
Back at home instructing AIARE Level 1 and Level 2 Avalanche Courses for Mountain Madness.
February 4, 2017: Off to Chamonix
Headed back to the Alps to do a bit of skiing and training. Looks to be prefect timing as the mountains are finally receiving the first big snow of the winter.
January 23, 2017: Back to School
French classes at the Alliance Française in Seattle as part of the process to receive IFMGA/UIAGM equivalency to work in the Alps.
January 11-18, 2017: Japan, Myoko, Powder
Just over one week in this place has changed my view of deep powder skiing once again. Nearly 4 meters of snow (that is over 13 feet!) fell in just over 1 week. When faceshots, choking on snow, becomes just another day...
January 4-6, 2017: Provo Canyon/SLC Ice Climbing
Despite some warm temps, fickle ice and highway closures due to avalanche control, Alan and I managed to squeeze in a few good days of ice climbing.
December 13-18, 2016: Hyalite Canyon, MT Ice Climbing
Spent a few days climbing some ice with Alan Rousseau, getting trained and dialed in together for our Mugs Stump Award supported India Expedition in the Fall of 2017.
October 26, 2016: Certified Rock Guide and IFMGA
Two months now of training and examination this Fall, a 3 year process has come to an end. I passed the AMGA Rock Guide Exam to become 1 of just over 100 American IFMGA Guides. Now let's climb (or ski) - anywhere and everywhere!
September 22, 2016: AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
After a month of training and 10 days of examination I am psyched to have passed the American Mountain Guides Association Alpine Guide Exam! Onto the rock exam next.
July 27, 2016: Summits reached on Kenya
Summitted the mountain twice in four days with two different guests via the North Face Route. What a great climb!
July 18 - July 29, 2016: From Russia to Kenya
Jetsetting from one of the Seven Summits to one of the Second Sevens, Mt. Kenya. Looking forward to 20 pitches of fun, moderate rock climbing to 17,000 ft. Maybe even catch up with the wildlife on a safari.
July 13, 2016: Wrapping up a Succesful Elbrus Season
Second summit of the season and another beautful day on the mountain.
June 19 - July 18, 2016: Two Trips up Elbrus
Back to Russia for Elbrus expedition numbers 8 and 9 for me. I always enjoy my time in Russia; it has such a unique culture and rich history. It’s the perfect short expedition to enjoy a bit of travel and do some mountaineering. Still working on the language though…
May 18 - June 12, 2016: North to Mt. Logan
I am heading back up to the Great White North for a Mountain Madness expedition to the second highest peak in North America - Canada's Mt. Logan. I led an expedition there in 2011 and it was a great success with every team member standing on top. Hopefully, this year the mountain will allow us the good weather and conditions to summit once again.
April 28 - May 18, 2016: Back Home, Skiing Good to the Last Drop
Ski mountaineering season is in full effect in the Cascades. The glaciers and crevasses are filled in and the snow line extends down low. It is melting out fast though. Get it while you can.
April 24 - 28, 2016: WFR Recertification in BC
Back home in time to turn it around for my WFR recert in Revelstoke, British Columbia.
April 9 - April 22, 2016: Guiding the Warren Miller Film Crew
It has been a pleasure to work with the all-star crew that came together to film for the upcoming 2016 Warren Miller release. Just a super fun time to fly around the Chugach, ski some big lines, and film with a crew of true professionals. The segment is going to be REALLY good. Fired up!
February 18 - April 22, 2016: Points North Heli Ski Season
I have made the annual pilgrimage to AK for the heli ski season. If the first couple of weeks are any indication of how this season is going to go, we are psyched. Deep, stable, blower powder. All time.
February 8 - February 16, 2016: Freak Rain Storms in Japan
You win some, you lose some. Last season was JaPow. Hoping for a repeat performance but this season was more like JaRain.
January 22 - February 1, 2016: Time off in Peru
Visiting family and checking out some of the mountain regions of Peru. Good times.
August 31, 2015: Success on Pik Lenin
Success on the second Mountain Madness expedition to Pik Lenin (7134m), Kyrgyzstan. All team members stood on top at 3:30pm on August 31. A grueling climb in frigid temps, with very little wind led to a stormy, cloudy, snowy descent. Our climbers proved themselves by digging deep and getting back to Camp 3 quickly. The summit is only half-way. Super proud of everyone!
July 20 - August 1, 2015: On the Elbrus Express
Jetting off to Russia for a Mountain Madness Elbrus Express trip. Twelve days out of country to climb one of the Seven Summits. Such a short time commitment for a climbing trip to an interesting part of the world. It is not a bad gig.
July 1 - 15, 2015: Cascade Alpine Season in Full Swing
Summer here in Washington has been very nice. Too hot, really. But it has provided awesome windows for climbing. Alpine rock, glaciated volcanoes... Cascadia provides.
June 4, 2015: Whistler, BC Spring Presentations
Spring was the season of presentations. I gave a few presentations in the PNW about my expedition to Nepal last Autumn with Alan Rousseau. Second Ascent was kind enough to host in Seattle and we raised a few hundred dollars to donate to Nepal's earthquake relief. Helly Hansen also had me up to Whistler for their retailer meeting where we talked gear and how to put it through the ringer.