The video of the first ascent of Rungofarka, a 6495 m peak in the Zanskar mountain range in the Indian Himalaya carried out in September 2017 by American alpinists Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau.
See the full video at: https://www.planetmountain.com/
Tino and Alan's climb of Rungofarka made the shortlist for the Piolet d'Or.
From the Piolets d’Or:
Routes listed represent significant and innovative "mountaineering" ascents within their respective areas during 2017. With only a few exceptions, routes below were new, climbed without placing drilled equipment, and in complete alpine style.
Read more: www.pioletsdor.net
The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to annouce the recipients of the 2018 Cutting Edge Grant. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s tradition supporting climbing athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.
Alan and Tino will be going to the India’s Jammu and Kashmir to attempt the unclimbed north face of Chilling II (circa 6400m) in the Zanskar Range of the Himalaya.
Read more: Alpinist.com
In October 2017, US alpinists and mountain guides Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau established a significant new route on the north ridge of Rungofarka (6495m) in Jammu and Kashmir in the Northern Indian Himalaya, which they have named The T&A Show (VI M6 WI4+, 1200m).
Read more: https://www.ukclimbing.com/
On the Black Diamond Experience Blog: After receiving the Copp-Dash Inspire Award, two American IFMGA mountain guides vision-quested their way to the summit of an unclimbed Himalayan peak.
Read more: www.blackdiamond.com
From September 30 to October 4, Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau completed a long and technical new route on the north ridge of Rungofarka (6495m), a peak in the Zanskar Range that the Indian Mountaineering Foundation recently opened for permits.
Alan gives an interview for the American Alpine Club's podcast. "The Cutting Edge: Voices from the American Alpine Journal" is a new podcast featuring in-depth, tightly focused interviews with climbers who've just returned from ground-breaking ascents all over the world. Listen to the full podcast here on SoundCloud.
Mountain guide, first ascensionist and Copp-Dash Inspire Award Winner Tino Villanueva shares on his alpine climbing career, and the gear that's taken him to the top.
Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau completed the first ascent of Rungofarka (6,495m) over five days.
Standing at 6495 meters, Rungofarka captured the eyes of Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau from halfway across the world. After a year of preparation and six weeks on location, they returned having recorded an alpine style first ascent of the peak.
Supporting Small Teams with Big Goals in the High Mountains:
“The Inspire Award is not just a climbing expedition grant,” says Jonathan Thesenga. “One thing we all learned from Jonny and Micah is that it’s as much about the stories and experiences that we take away from our climbs, as the climb itself. This award has been designed to support small teams with big goals in the high mountains and empower them to bring their adventures back and share their stories of inspiration.”
The recipients of the 2017 Mugs Stump Award were announced at the Bozeman Ice Festival on Thursday, December 9. The award, a collaborative effort of Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., Mountain Gear, Patagonia, Inc., and W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc., was created in 1993 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America's most visionary climbers. In the 25 years since its inception, the Mugs Stump Award has provided over $425,000 to small teams pursuing climbing objectives that exemplify light, fast and clean alpinism...
Tino makes a cameo in the 67th Warren Miller film. Currently on tour and coming to Seattle November 18th and 19th at McCaw Hall.
SnoWorld Magazine accompanies each Warren Miller movie release. Here, Tino is captured while skiing and guiding the film crew for the 2016 film Here, There & Everywhere.
Tino not only was extremely knowledgeable but also made me feel very comfortable on some of the biggest and steepest terrain AK has to offer. He coached me and my group down sections of terrain that where 55 degrees sustained for 2000 vertical and littered with seracs and crevasses, he belayed us into narrow lines, and did it with a smile on his face.
Read more on www.snowbrains.com.
The Big List of 2014 ascents for the 2015 Piolet d’Or has been published online and we are excited to see the names of some of our fellow athletes:
Ascent: West-face of Parchamo in the Rolwaling Range of Nepal (6,279m, 1,200m, AI4 M5)
Alpinists: Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva (Both supported by Beal)
Read more at www.libertymountainclimbing.com
Alan Rousseau paused, breathing hard at 6200 meters above sea level. Lifting his arms out of the neck-deep snow, he used his ice tools to clear his path upward. The light, faceted flakes sloughed back onto him, but he burrowed upward; his partner, Tino Villanueva, followed behind. The motions repeated for 60 meters. Another pitch higher, he and Villanueva emerged on the summit of Pachermo (6275m).
Read more at www.alpinist.com
Mountain guides Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva climbed a new route on a 20,000-foot peak in Nepal and made a solid attempt on a higher peak. The two Americans were climbing in the Rolwaling Himal, an area they first visited in 2012, west of the popular Khumbu region.
After a seven-day trek and some reconnaissance while acclimatizing, the two made the likely first ascent of the west face of Pachermo (6,275m/20,587') on Halloween.
Read more at www.climbing.com
Part 1 of 2: Recently reported by Alpinist Magazine, Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva wrapped up their second expedition in the Rolwaling Himal with the support of the AAC’s Lyman Spitzer Award and Beal ropes.
Read more at www.libertymountain.com
Recently reported by Alpinist Magazine, Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva wrapped up their second expedition in the Rolwaling Himal with the support of the AAC’s Lyman Spitzer Award and Beal ropes.
Read more at www.libertymountain.com
The Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award, presented by the American Alpine Club (AAC), is a grant awarded to small climbing teams attempting enterprising first ascents or strenuous repeats of the most demanding alpine routes in the world. This year’s recipients include four teams all heading to Asia:
Read more at www.rockandice.com
Helly Hansen ambassadors and Mountain Madness guides Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva ventured up north to Banff, Alberta in search of frozen waterfalls and early season ice climbing. Check out Alan's account of the extremely cold trip...
Read more at www.hellyhansen.com
We have received satellite call updates from the Nepal Expedition team deep in the Rolwaling Valley, where the team spent the first week pioneering new ice climbing routes. After a successful climb, Alan and Matt were repelling down the route when a rock struck Matt's hand from a couple hundred meters above.
Read more at www.hellyhansen.com